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.....Frequently Asked Questions.....
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Who should attend the inspection? Why choose At Home Inspections, Inc.? Should new homes be inspected? What does the home inspection report form look like? What types of environmental tests are available? A note on the following "What does the home inspector look for in...?" list of questions. What does the home inspector look for in the heating system? What does the home inspector look for in the air conditioning system? What does the home inspector look for in the structure (foundation and slab)? What does the home inspector look for in the structure (framing)? What does the home inspector look for in the plumbing system? What does the home inspector look for in the electrical system? What does the home inspector look for on the interior of the home? What does the home inspector look for in crawl spaces under homes? What does the home inspector look for in attic crawlspaces? What does the home inspector look for on the roof? What does the home inspector look for on the exterior of the home? What does the home inspector look for on the grounds around the home? What does the home inspector look for in the basement? What does the home inspector look for in the kitchen and laundry areas? What does the home inspector look for in the garage?
What is ASHI? ASHI
(the American Society of Home Inspectors) is the oldest and largest home
inspector organization in the United States. To become a member, the home
inspector must complete a minimum number of inspections, pass two exams,
and submit inspection reports for review. To maintain ASHI membership,
the home inspector must earn 20 continuing education credits annually.
Contact ASHI at 1-800-743-2744 or visit the ASHI web site, ashi.com
to learn more about the ASHI Standards of Practice and the ASHI Code of
Ethics.
Who should attend the inspection? The
homebuyer should always attend the home inspection, to receive the greatest
value by asking questions, discussing concerns and remodeling ideas, and
learning about home maintenance. Why choose At Home Inspections, Inc.? All
home inspection companies are NOT the same. Quality, experience, and education
vary dramatically from company to company. When you choose At Home Inspections,
Inc., our knowledge of contracting includes hands-on experience in ALL
phases of residential construction, and at least 10,000 inspections completed
per inspector. The ability of the inspector to recognize certain types
of defects and trends with 'built-in' problems increases with the number
of inspections completed. In the Washington, DC and Baltimore metro areas,
At Home Inspections, Inc. has inspected virtually every type of residence
of every age -- from new homes to 250 year old homes -- from Victorian
to contempory styles of architecture -- from geodesic domes to apartments.
At Home Inspections, Inc.'s policy is to hire only professionals with
degrees in civil engineering or architecture. Should new homes be inspected? Yes. New homes typically have three types of problems: (a) subcontractor unfamiliar with, or failing to follow manufacture's installation specifications, (b) general contractor unable to properly coordinate subcontractors, and (c) flawed architectural and engineering plans/design work. These problems result in missing, damaged, or improperly installed equipment, materials, and components. The new home inspection "punch list" can include items ranging from repairing a damaged door or window to replacing a driveway or an entire roof. We
recommend three inspections for new homes: (1) the foundation inspection,
performed when the foundation wall is in place, prior to back-fill, (2)
the framing inspection, performed when all framing, mechanical, electrical
and plumbing work is complete, prior to the installation of the insulation,
and (3) the pre-settlement walk-through, performed when the house is 100
percent complete. What does the home inspection report form look like? The At Home Inspections, Inc. report form is 24 pages long and details essential information about the home. The report form is contained in a 305-page report/maintenance manual that covers all aspects of home maintenance and safety. The "Repairs Advised" page (typically one to six pages, depending on the property's condition) lists major, moderate, and mechanical (plumbing, electric, heating/air conditioning, and appliances) repairs. The "Recommended Maintenance" page lists the most common routine maintenance and minor repair functions around the home, with the applicable items checked off. The "Additional Comments" page contains the inspector's preventive maintenance recommendations, and additional observations about the property condition. The report breaks the house down into eight sections: Structure, Water Control, Exterior (includes Roofing), Plumbing, Electrical, Heating, Air Conditioning, and Interior (includes Kitchens and Appliances). On the report page for each section, the inspector comments on the type and condition of the components of construction and the equipment. For example, under Heating, the type of furnace or boiler is noted along with the manufacture's name, date of manufacture, and the BTU per Hour input rating of the equipment. The furnace or boiler is given a 'grade' based on how well the equipment was maintained, and how 'worn' the equipment is. The type of distribution for the heating system is listed, and the distribution components are also 'graded'. The report/maintenance manual includes a seasonal maintenance checklist, a life-cycle replacement/repair cost guide for the typical components in the home, an energy audit, energy savings upgrade recommendation(s), and invaluable health and safety tips. The
remaining report pages are (a) "How to Make Best Use of This Report"
- which simply tells you where to locate everything in the report, (b)
"Additional Tests Available" - a list of specialized tests for
those who are interested, (c) the Contract and Disclosure Statements,
and (d) the "Summary" page - which highlights the comparative
strengths and weaknesses of the property. What types of environmental tests are available? At
Home Inspections, Inc. works with an environmental lab that offers radon
testing, mold and mildew analysis, asbestos, and lead testing. You can
choose to schedule your environmental tests when you schedule your home
inspection.
A note on the following "What does the home inspector look for in...?" list of questions. The
answers to these questions represent the types of things your At Home
Inspections, Inc. inspector generally checks in the home. They are NOT
intended to be definitive, exhaustive 'checklists' used for inspecting
a home. If you have particular concerns, interests, or questions that
are not answered here, please call or e-mail us (contact info is on our
home page). What does the home inspector look for in the heating system? Your
At Home Inspections, Inc. professional looks for defects in the heating
system (e.g., burner(s), exhaust vents, thermostat- humidistat-zone-ignition-blower-
control equipment, distribution systems and equipment). Some examples
of defects include cracked/perforated heat exchangers in gas and oil fired
forced air furnaces, damaged/failed/improperly installed exhaust vents
on gas and oil fired furnaces and boilers, leaking condensate line(s)
on high efficiency furnaces/boilers, defective gas and oil ignition equipment,
oil and gas supply line leaks, defective heat pump controllers, worn/defective
wiring on heat pumps and electric furnaces, defective water level equipment
in steam boilers (too little or too much water in boiler), missing pressure/temperature
safety equipment on water and steam boiler systems, and damaged/defective
space heating equipment. There are literally hundreds of other defects
that could be diagnosed during the home inspection, and if nonstandard
work is observed, the list is even longer. What does the home inspector look for in the air conditioning system? Your
At Home Inspections, Inc. professional looks for defects in the air conditioning
equipment -- whether it is central air conditioning or space cooling equipment.
Unlike heating systems, which
are required when the house is built, a/c systems are optional. Many systems
are retrofitted (which can lead to a series of "built-in" problems),
and many homeowners still use space a/c equipment (e.g., through-wall,
and window units). Defects in a central a/c system can include dirty/
blocked refrigerant coil fins, missing/undersized returns, missing insulation
on the refrigerant tubing, damaged/inoperable control equipment, worn/damaged
wiring in the outside compressor/condensor fan/coil unit, low current
draw on the compressor (typically indicates a low refrigerant charge and
can mean replacement of the system), and leaking/damaged condensate drain
pan/pipe/pump equipment. Amateur, or nonstandard work can result in almost
any type of damage or defect. What does the home inspector look for in the structure (foundation and slab)? Your
At Home Inspections, Inc. professional
checks exposed sections of foundation walls for cracks (vertical, horizontal,
diagonal, or stair-step), 'bowing' (a lateral or sideways shift in the
wall from one end or corner to the next end or corner), 'bulging' (a lateral
or sideways shift in the wall from top to bottom), and disintegration
of the foundation wall (e.g., spalled brick/block/terra cotta tile, or
structural failure of the masonry mortar or cast concrete wall as a result
of incorrect proportions when mixing and placing the material). Repairs
to foundations can be expensive (depending on soil type and condition
of exterior grading/drainage). Exposed sections of concrete slabs are
checked for cracking, 'uniform settlement' (entire slab settles uniformly
- may have no effect on the structure of the house, but may cause major
problems with water and sewer main pipes entering and leaving the house),
'heaving' - usually a function of an expansive clay under the slab, and
'voids' under the slab. (Most concrete slabs in residential work are supported
by the soil underneath the slab, and if the soil was not properly prepared
and compacted during construction, the soil will settle below the slab
leaving the slab 'floating' in air - this could result in sections of
the slab cracking and settling excessively.) Nonstandard work increases
the risk for potential and costly repairs. Typical examples of nonstandard
work are (a) an addition that was built without a proper footing/foundation
and (b) the 'closed-in' patio (a nonbearing slab with no footing now supporting
a structure attached to the house). What does the home inspector look for in the structure (framing)? Your
At Home Inspections, Inc. professional
checks for evidence of wood boring insect (e.g., termite) infestation,
damage (new or old), and treatment. Molds, mildews, and other fungi feed
on cellulose and can damage the structural framing of the house, in addition
to being biohazards and health risks. Evidence of mold/mildew infestation
is noted on the inspection report. Steel and wood posts/beams are checked
for deflection, deformation, bearing and connections (bolts, weld joints,
etc.). Joists and truss joists are checked for structural damage (cuts/splits/cracks/rot),
and for the type/condition of connectors/fasteners (e.g., strap hangers).
Roof rafters/trusses are checked for the same defects as the joists and
beams. The roof sheathing is checked for mold/mildew/rot damage and water
leakage. On townhouses more than 11 years old, the roof sheathing may
be failed fire-retardant-treated plywood, and on single family homes 35
years and older, some non-treated plywood roof sheathing will fail. What does the home inspector look for in the plumbing system? Your At Home Inspections, Inc. professional checks all the fixtures and most of the cutoff valves in the house. Water volume flow rate is checked as a function of the total number of fixtures that can be operated at the same time. The type of material used in the plumbing system is checked. (For example, the supply pipe from the street main is identified as copper, polyethylene, lead, polybutylene or galvanized steel, while the supply pipes in the house are identified as copper, polyethylene, lead, polybutylene, galvanized steel, or chlorinated polyvinyl chloride (CPVC)). Water heaters are checked for age, size, recovery rate, burner, and exhaust system condition. On well systems (private water), the well pump compression tank, switch control and gauge are checked, and the plumbing connections for filtration equipment are checked.
Some typical defects in plumbing systems are leaking washers (valve stem
seals), leaking/rusted traps and pipes, wastewater/supply-water cross-connections,
loose pipes and fixtures, leaking shower pans, missing plumbing vent on
wasteline, inoperable fixture cutoff valves, etc. Any amateur or nonstandard
work is considered defective. What does the home inspector look for in the electrical system? Your
At Home Inspections, Inc. professional
removes the main distribution panel cover to observe the type of main
service entrance cable and the type of wiring used in the home. Some typical
defects that the inspector looks for in the main electric distribution
panel are over-fused circuits, overloaded neutrals, current on main ground,
heat damage, loose connections, water damage, broken circuit breakers,
inadequate power supply to the house, aluminum wire on 120 volt circuits,
double-tapped circuitry, etc. For the house wiring, the inspector operates
switches, and checks outlets for polarity, ground, and percent voltage
drop. Any nonstandard electric equipment (e.g., wire splices not contained
in junction boxes, missing cable box clamp connectors, lamp/extension
cord powering fixed-in-place equipment, etc.) is considered defective. What does the home inspector look for on the interior of the home? Your At Home Inspections, Inc. professional looks for evidence of leakage, including damaged paint, buckled paneling, mold/mildew, water stains and/or patchwork. The inspector checks windows and doors for operability, and thermal pane doors and windows for failed thermal seals. Exposed hardwood flooring is checked for water damage and finish failure. Plaster walls and ceilings are checked for excessive cracking (older plaster on wood lath systems can separate and fail). Any nonstandard finish work - for example, rigid foam insulation panels used in suspended ceiling panel frames - is considered defective. The
inspector checks masonry fireplaces for loose brick in the firebox, damper
operation, and cracking on the sides of the firebox and/or hearth (which
could indicate structural settlement/failure of the chimney foundation).
Prefab metal fireplaces are checked for damper operation, rust damage
(rain cap missing/damaged), firebox-to-flue pipe connection, and fan operation
(where applicable). Gas logs are turned on and checked for room safety
valves, and the installation method is compared to manufacture's installation
specifications. (Specifications are usually attached to gas log assembly.)
What does the home inspector look for in crawlspaces under homes? Your
At Home Inspections, Inc. professional
looks for any signs of water intrusion and/or high moisture content such
as stains, efflorescence, rust damage to structural steel beams and fasteners,
mold, mildew, rotted wood, silt, water stains on vapor barriers, etc.
The inspector checks insulation for approximate thickness and "R"
rating. Missing, loose, or improperly installed insulation and/or vapor
barrier, is considered defective. Framing is checked for active or past
termite infestation. Ductwork, piping and wiring are checked for breaks,
rust damage, leakage, and adequate support. What does the home inspector look for in attic crawlspaces? Your At Home Inspections, Inc. professional looks for stains - evidence of either leakage and/or condensation problems. Accessible roof framing components (e.g., trusses/rafters, sheathing, ridge plates/beams, connections, fasteners, etc.) are checked for defects and damage. (See "What does the home inspector look for in the structure (framing)?) The type, condition, and approximate thickness of the attic insulation are checked. The attic ventilation system is checked. Any nests ( squirrel, bird, or bee) and other pests that the inspector observes in the attic are reported. Most
attic finish jobs are done by homeowners or 'handymen' (as opposed to
licensed contractors) so the home inspector also looks for any evidence
of amateur or nonstandard work. Amateur finish work may look unattractive,
but generally will not be a safety risk. Amateur electric work is usually
a very serious problem. What does the home inspector look for on the roof? Your
At Home Inspections, Inc. professional
walks most roofs. Very steep roofs, and roofs that are finished with brittle
materials that break easily (e.g., slate, terra cotta, asbestos cement,
lightweight concrete tiles, etc.) are typically not walked, but are almost
always examined by ladder at an eave edge or off a porch or dormer. The
inspector checks the condition of the finish roof "membrane"
(e.g., slates, asphalt shingles, wood shingles, wood shakes, modified
bitumin membrane, and metal panel). All roofing materials wear out over
time. It is important for you, the home-buyer, to know whether your slate
roof is going to last 2 more years or twenty more years. In addition to
checking the actual pieces that make up the water impervious membrane,
the inspector attempts to examine (if possible) the type of fasteners
used, the condition of the fasteners, and the quality of the installation
job, based on the way the fasteners were installed. Chimney tops, as well
as exposed, accessible flashing materials, are checked. Low slope and
'flat' roof membrane systems are checked for signs of leakage through
the membrane, as well as for wear. (These systems often do not have accessible
'attic crawl-spaces', and leak damage is often evident on the roof surface
before water stains appear on the drywall or plaster ceiling below.) Gutters
and downspouts are checked for alignment, clogging, and adequacy of fastening
systems. What does the home inspector look for on the exterior of the home? Your
At Home Inspections, Inc. professional
looks for evidence of wood trim and wood siding rot and decay. Certain
siding systems are prone to systemic failure - for example, some fiberboard
siding products, and "panelized stucco systems" (EIFS - Exterior
Insulated Finish Systems). The fiberboard siding products tend to fail
as a function of a manufacturing defect, lack of proper maintenance, and/or
defective installation. The panelized stucco systems tend to fail as a
function of either leakage around improperly sealed/flashed openings in
exterior walls and/or design defects that result in condensation and ventilation
in exterior wall cavities. On houses that use no wood (aluminum, vinyl,
vinyl clad aluminum or steel siding and trim), the inspector checks the
siding system to see if the proper trim pieces have been used around doors
and windows and at intersecting wall and roof joints. The trim/accessory
pieces on manufactured siding systems (aluminum, vinyl, etc.) are necessary
to prevent water and air infiltration into the house wall. The accessible
flashing around doors, door sills, windows, and any projection from any
house wall are checked for proper installation and ability to protect
the house wall from water intrusion. The inspector checks the fastening
system(s) on decks, porches, and stairs connected to the house. What does the home inspector look for on the grounds around the home? Your At Home Inspections, Inc. professional looks at drainage around the house, specifically noting if surface water run-off is directed AWAY from the house. This includes grading for proper drainage away from house foundation walls, addition foundation walls, retaining walls, patios, sidewalks, stoops, porches, steps, etc. Proper grading, drainage and surface water run-off control around the home is essential for minimizing basement and below-ground crawlspace leakage, and for reducing foundation settlement problems. The home inspector checks the paved driveway and walkway(s) for cracks, settlement, drainage problems, and trip hazards. Retaining walls are checked for vertical settlement, horizontal shift (often indicating failure) and the presence of safety railings. The fastening systems and support framing systems for stairways, decks, and attached porches are checked for fastener corrosion, proper framing technique, safety railings, wood rot, rust damage to structural steel, concrete slab splitting, spalling, and shifting. Attached
stoops, slabs, and outside basement entrance stairs are checked for settlement
problems. In addition to the obvious drainage and trip hazard problems
that occur with settlement of attached stoops, slabs, and outside basement
entrance stairs, additional damage to foundation walls often results.
What does the home inspector look for in the basement? Your At Home Inspections, Inc. professional looks for any evidence of leakage, seepage, mold, mildew, high relative humidity - any type of staining or damage to finish materials that would indicate a problem with water control around the foundation. If any de-watering systems are present, the drains and pump equipment are checked (accessibility permitting). Most
basement 'finish' jobs are done by homeowners or handymen (as opposed
to licensed contractors), so the home inspector looks for any evidence
of amateur or nonstandard work. Amateur finish work may look unattractive,
but generally will not be a safety risk. Amateur electric work is usually
a very serious problem. What does the home inspector look for in the kitchen and laundry areas? Your
At Home Inspections, Inc. professional
runs all appliances (dishwasher,
washing machine, dryer, icemaker, etc.)
through a cycle, turns on garbage disposers, trash compactors, "instant
hot" water heaters, exhaust fans, and fixed-in-place (not countertop)
microwave ovens, and checks the temperatures of the oven(s) and refrigerator(s).
Cabinets are checked for proper attachment to walls and broken hardware.
Where possible, the inspector checks the electrical and gas connections
for clothes dryers and stoves. Clothes washers on first and second floors
over finished levels should have overflow pans with working drains --
pans are checked for cracks. GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt) outlets
are checked. What does the home inspector look for in the garage? Your
At Home Inspections, Inc. professional
operates the garage bay door. On manual bay doors, the mechanical spring
balance is checked, and on bay doors with electric motor operators, the
auto safety reverse operations are checked (e.g., door striking object
in path of travel and reversing, photocell safety switch). The concrete
slab is checked for cracking and settlement. On attached garages, walls,
ceilings, and door(s) into house are checked for fire-rating. home | the inspector | the inspection | why choose us | links | faqs | about ashi |
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